The IUCN uses a quantitative approach to evaluate sources of primary marine microplastics and their impact on the world’s oceans. This study concludes that between 15% and 31% of marine plastics could originate from primary sources, with textiles constituting 34.8% of those releases.
Julien Boucher, & Damien Friot. (2017, February 22). Primary microplastics in the oceans. IUCN. https://www.iucn.org/content/primary-microplastics-oceans
This study looks at microfiber pollution of air and water as a direct result of laundering. They conclude that intercepting microfiber release (via new laundering techniques, filters, etc), is only part of the larger problem of textile manufacturing. They recommend encouraging textile designs with a more compact and highly twisted woven structure. (full article behind a paywall)
De Falco, F., Cocca, M., Avella, M., & Thompson, R. (2020). Microfiber Release to Water, Via Laundering, and to Air, via Everyday Use: A Comparison between Polyester Clothing with Differing Textile Parameters. Environmental Science & Technology, XXXX. https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.est.9b06892
In collaboration with Ocean Wise’s Plastic Lab, Patagonia has been funding research into microfiber pollution and shedding rates of various textiles. They have discovered that textiles shed between 31,000 and 3,500,000 microfibers per wash cycle, with “fluffy” textiles such as fleece shedding the most.
Stephen Chastain. (2019, February 1). Teaming Up to Get to the Bottom of Microfiber Pollution—Patagonia. https://www.patagonia.com/stories/teaming-up-to-get-to-the-bottom-of-microfiber-pollution/story-71999.html
Ocean Wise is conducting forensic research on the impact that microplastics have on marine life and particularly zooplankton (the base of the marine food chain), beluga whales, and blue mussels.
Ocean Wise. (n.d.). Microplastics. Ocean Wise. Retrieved October 8, 2020, from https://ocean.org/our-work/research/microplastics/
This study by environmental engineers at Sakarya University aims to evaluate the amount of free-floating and biopersistent microplastic fibers in the air. Researchers find that microplastics are not only widely present in the air, but may pose health risks and cause inflammatory responses when inhaled. (full article behind a paywall)
Kaya, A., Yurtsever, M., & Bayraktar, S. (2018). Ubiquitous exposure to microfiber pollution in the air. The European Physical Journal Plus, 133. https://doi.org/10.1140/epjp/i2018-12372-7
Plastic Soup Foundation walks through the release of microfibers from washing and wearing our clothes, and the potential health impacts that microfiber pollution may have on wildlife, our food chain, and us.
Plastic Soup Foundation. (n.d.). Microfiber Pollution: Our Clothes Pollute the Oceans. Ocean Clean Wash. Retrieved October 8, 2020, from https://www.oceancleanwash.org/
Widespread work-from-home mandates have caused an uptick in athleisure sales and thus clothing made with synthetic fibers. This article speaks to microfiber pollution as an ecological threat and covers the lack of advanced filtration technologies and limited action by the fashion industry.
This White Paper by The Nature Conservancy and Bain and Company examines the challenge of pre-consumer microfiber emissions from textile manufacturing and defines four major necessary changes within the textile supply chain that would help address the issue of microfiber leakage. They report that in order to take effective action, "coordinated intervention must be taken across NGOs, brands, retailers, suppliers, academia, governments and consumers."
NEW RESEARCH: Pre-Consumer Microfiber Emissions from Clothing. (n.d.). Retrieved June 17, 2021, from https://www.nature.org/en-us/newsroom/ca-microfiber-emissions/
Microplastics are so abundant in the marine environment that even zooplankton are consuming them. Seeing as zooplankton are a crucial food source for many secondary consumers, this research demonstrates the pathway of microplastics through our food chain.
Botterell, Z. L. R., Beaumont, N., Dorrington, T., Steinke, M., Thompson, R. C., & Lindeque, P. K. (2019). Bioavailability and effects of microplastics on marine zooplankton: A review. Environmental Pollution, 245, 98–110. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envpol.2018.10.065
IPEN and The National Toxics Network detail the adverse effects of a range of persistent chemical pollutants in marine settings including “hazardous pesticides, pharmaceuticals, POPs like PCBs, plastics, microplastics, and heavy metals.” This report also explains how microfiber travel through our food chain impacts marginalized communities.
IPEN, & The National Toxics Network. (2018). Ocean Pollutants Guide | IPEN (p. 107). https://ipen.org/sites/default/files/documents/ipen-ocean-pollutants-v2_1-en-web.pdf
This review touches on the adverse ecological impacts of microfiber pollution and particularly its effects on aquatic species.
Mishra, S., Rath, C. charan, & Das, A. P. (2019). Marine microfiber pollution: A review on present status and future challenges. Marine Pollution Bulletin, 140, 188–197. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2019.01.039
Based on the principles of a circular economy, this comprehensive report looks to redefine how clothes are designed, sold, and used by focusing on the three areas of designing out waste and pollution, keeping products and materials in use, and regenerating natural systems.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new
textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future,
(2017, http://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications )
This report by the Biomimicry Institute highlights the importance of creating a fashion industry that mimics natural cycling processes, all while “enhancing ecosystems to boost biodiversity, build soil, support communities, and clean up existing pollution.”
Biomimicry Institute. (2020, June 30). The Nature of Fashion:
Moving towards a regenerative system. Biomimicry
Institute. https://biomimicry.org/thenatureoffashion/
This report explores the financial viability of circular economy models (rental, subscription-rental, and recommerce) in the fashion industry. They conclude that these three business models are viable, and, if explicitly designed to prioritize sustainability, could cause the fashion industry to value quality and garment durability over quantity.
Harry Morrison, Lynda Petherick, &
Katrin Ley. (2019, May 14). The Future of Circular Fashion Report. Fashion
For
Good. https://fashionforgood.com/our_news/driving-circular-business-models-in-fashion/
This infographic by The Microfibre Consortium (TMC) visually represents all steps of the textile processing chain and highlights specific areas of known microfiber release all the way from raw materials to end of use.
The Microfibre Consortium. (2019,
February). Microfibre
Infographic. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5aaba1998f513028aeec604c/t/5da5b8776f4bd17954222f42/1571141756367/Microfibre+Infographic+1.0+Tier+1+20190523.png
Pulse of the fashion industry uses the Higg index to assess the social and environmental performance of the fashion sector as well as likelihood of achieving United Nation Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and the Paris Accord. The industry is also placed along the pulse curve—a five-phase trajectory of social and environmental performance.
Catharina Martinez-Pardo, & Felix
Krueger. (2019, January 1). 2019 Pulse of the Fashion Industry. United States
- EN. https://www.bcg.com/en-us/2019-pulse-of-the-fashion-industry
While the coronavirus pandemic has put the fashion industry on red alert, it also presents an opportunity to completely reshape the textile value chain. It is expected that digital acceleration, discounting, industry consolidation, and corporate innovation will be prioritized once the crisis subsides.
Imran Amed, & Achim Berg. (2020,
April 8). The State of Fashion 2020: Coronavirus Update — It’s Time to Rewire
the Fashion Industry. The Business of
Fashion. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/the-state-of-fashion-2020-coronavirus-update-bof-mckinsey-report-release-download
The State of Fashion 2020 details how brands will need to adapt to a changing digital landscape as well as higher expectations from the consumer in terms of brand sustainability.
Imran Amed, Anita Balchandani, Achim
Berg, Saskia Hedrich, Shrina Poojara, & Felix Rölkens. (2019, November
20). The State of Fashion 2020: Navigating uncertainty in the fashion
industry | McKinsey. Mckinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-state-of-fashion-2020-navigating-uncertainty#
Virgin man-made cellulosic fiber (MMCF) production can contribute to unsustainable forestry, large amounts of textile waste, and the use of substances of concern (SOCs) during the manufacturing stages. To decrease their environmental impact, the MMCF industry should divest from oil-derived polyester and water-heavy cotton while also innovating upon textile-to-textile recycling methods.
FashionForGood. (2020, September). Coming Full Circle: Innovating towards sustainable Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres. Fashion for Good Reports. https://reports.fashionforgood.com/report/coming-full-circle-innovating-towards-sustainable-man-made-cellulosic-fibres/
Fashion For Good details the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry, and the potential for positive innovation through new technology. This report also lists out pioneering venture funds with an interest in supporting new textile innovation.
FashionForGood. (2019, October). Investing in Textile Innovation: opportunities for investors in the textile and apparel innovation ecosystem. Fashion for Good Reports. https://fashionforgood.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/FashionForGood_Investing-in-Textile-Innovation_October.pdf
The Next Generation Action Plan uses circular economy principles to reimagine forest protection if the pulp sector were to shift away from its heavy reliance on wood fiber (particularly from Ancient and Endangered forests).
Canopy. (2020). SURVIVAL: Canopy’s Action Plan for Saving Forests and Climate – Canopy. https://canopyplanet.org/resources/plan-for-saving-forests-climate/
This video explores the strength and characteristics of both silkworm silk and spider silk, and poses the question: “how can we make cruelty-free, fairly priced, sustainable silk?” The video further explains recombinant silk methods, where silk DNA is programmed into a microorganism and silk proteins are made in a cruelty-free way.
Alex Connor. (n.d.). Learn About Next Gen Silk Technology: Decoding Nature’s High-Performance Fiber. Material Innovation Initiative - Reports. Retrieved October 12, 2020, from https://www.materialinnovation.org/reports
Working to align with the United Nation Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), The Woolmark Company explains their efforts to lower environmental impact, use waterless dyeing practices, and become a natural alternative to fur. Wool (Australian Merino wool), the “original eco-fiber,” does not contribute to microfiber pollution as it biodegrades in marine environments.
Studios, A. P., WWD, Pastore, A., & Studios, W. W. D. (2020, April 22). Farm to Closet. WWD. https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/woolmark-sustainability-farm-to-closet-1203563854/
SeaChange Technologies has created a toxic sludge disposal system where effluent is evaporated and toxic organic contaminants are oxidized, while dissolved and suspended minerals are captured. Cyclonic separation draws out microplastics, leaving water and a small amount of CO2, and eliminating any need for landfill disposal.
FashionForGood. (2020, July 30). Piloting a Ground-Breaking Solution to Clean Wastewater—Fashion For Good. https://fashionforgood.com/our_news/piloting-a-ground-breaking-solution-to-clean-wastewater/
The 2019 Hot Button Ranking is a resource for brands to assess their man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCF) and their potential risks for ancient and endangered forests. This CanopyStyle framework encourages bold global supply chain change among some of the largest MMCF producers in the world.
CanopyStyle. (2019, December 18). The 2019 Hot Button Ranking of Viscose Producers is Here! – Canopy. https://canopyplanet.org/the-2019-hot-button-ranking-of-viscose-producers-is-here/
Recombinant silk technologies are a critical part of the sustainable textile field. This paper walks through the commercial potential, production requirements, and impact/sustainability of spider silk through a lifecycle analysis (LCA).
Edlund, A. (2016). Synthetic Spider Silk Sustainability Verification by Techno-Economic and Life Cycle Analysis. All Graduate Theses and Dissertations. https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/etd/5150
Planet Tracker discusses the negative externalities of the textile industry while discussing potential avenues for new textile innovation. They use the case study of Merino wool and a wool scouring facility in New England to demonstrate how circular economy principles can be fulfilled through nature-based solutions.
The Emperor Has No Clothes: Toxic Textiles in Today’s Age. (2020, April 24). Planet Tracker. https://planet-tracker.org/the-emperor-has-no-clothes-toxic-textiles-in-todays-age/
This 2021 report by Material Innovation Initiative contains research, analysis, and insights to guide the public's understanding of the nascent next-gen materials industry. With sections on the risks, opportunities, and driving forces of the next-gen materials market, this resource is particularly valuable to innovators, investors, and industry brands considering entering this space.
Material Innovation Initiative. (2021, June). State of the Industry Report: Next-Gen Materials. Material Innovation Initiative Reports: Business & Industry. https://www.materialinnovation.org/reports
This report issued by the Material Innovation Initiative in 2021 serves as a guide on the science of silk and opportunities for next-gen silk innovation that is less harmful to animals and the environment. This report can serve as a resource for key industry stakeholders such as scientists, textile suppliers and material innovators.
Material Innovation Initiative. (2021, June). What Makes Silk, Silk? Material Innovation Initiative Reports: Business & Industry. https://www.materialinnovation.org/reports
Microfiber-Free Textile Innovation
The Microfibre 2030 Commitment forms an aligned agenda for the sector against key Roadmap targets with very clear accountable outputs - ensuring a space and place for Signatories across the textiles industry to take meaningful, co-ordinated action.
We invite colleagues across the fashion and textiles industry to join us to ensure a truly collaborative and impactful response.
The Microfibre Consortium. (2021, September). The Microfibre Roadmap. Retrieved October 7, 2021, from https://www.microfibreconsortium.com/roadmap
Microfiber-Free Textile Innovation
(Available for purchase) AATCC TM212-2021, Test Method for Fiber Fragment Release During Home Laundering, provides a standardized method for quantifying fiber fragment shedding in the ongoing challenge to combat aquatic pollution. These fragments are sometimes referred to as “microfibers” or “microplastics.” Although unofficial and proprietary methods have been in use, AATCC TM212 is the first global standard published to address the issue of quantifying fiber fragment release. The test method was developed and approved by consensus from a diverse group of experts from around the world and across related industries.
Here, Greenpeace looks to expose the conflation of plastic-to-fuel and waste-to-fuel chemical recycling with plastic-to-plastic recycling. Under the guise of “chemical recycling,” the American Chemical Society uses taxpayer money to contribute further to the petrochemical industry.
Ivy Schlegel. (2020, September 9). Deception by the Numbers: Claims about Chemical Recycling Don’t Hold Up to Scrutiny. Greenpeace USA. https://www.greenpeace.org/usa/research/deception-by-the-numbers/
Greenwashing: Plastic and Plastic Disposal Systems
Greenpeace outlines the lack of action by fast-moving consumer goods companies (FMCGs) to curb single-use packaging and plastic waste. This report also explores some of the problematic aspects of paper packaging, “bioplastics,” and chemical recycling, and warns us against believing in false solutions.
Greenpeace. (2019, September 30). Throwing Away the Future: How Companies Still Have It Wrong on Plastic Pollution “Solutions.” Greenpeace USA. https://www.greenpeace.org/usa/research/how-companies-still-have-it-wrong-on-plastic-pollution-solutions/
Greenwashing: Plastic and Plastic Disposal Systems
Oceanic Global warns against the high potential for greenwashing as single-use plastics are being replaced with alternatives. This webpage also highlights the difference between biodegradable, biobased, and compostable products.
Oceanic Global. (n.d.). Greenwashing. Oceanic Global. Retrieved October 6, 2020, from https://oceanic.global/greenwashing/
Greenwashing: Plastic and Plastic Disposal Systems
5 Gyres compiles a top 20 list of plastic products and packaging that pollute U.S. watersheds. 5 Gyres also tests bioplastic products specifically to see if they hold up to company claims about their environmental performance. Spoiler alert: they don’t. This report brings up the issue of greenwashing and a lack of transparency around terms such as “compostable,” “biodegradable,” “bio-based,” and “bio-derived.”
5 Gyres. (2017). Plastics BAN List 2.0. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5522e85be4b0b65a7c78ac96/t/5acbd346562fa79982b268fc/1523307375028/5Gyres_BANlist2.pdf
Greenwashing: Plastic and Plastic Disposal Systems
This article by Good On You compiles a list of important questions to ask of the brands you buy from. These questions are a great starting point when asking for brand accountability and transparency.
Kubra Sait. (2019, April 21). Who Made My Clothes? And Other Important Questions. Good On You. https://goodonyou.eco/who-made-my-clothes-and-other-important-questions/
A comprehensive review of the negative externalities of the fast fashion supply chain and its environmental justice implications. Specific focus on fast fashion as a global issue that leaves extreme environmental and occupational burdens on communities in low and middle income countries (LMICs).
Bick, R., Halsey, E., & Ekenga, C. C. (2018). The global environmental injustice of fast fashion. Environmental Health, 17(1), 92. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7
A detailed overview of the health impacts of plastic at each stage of its lifecycle and the physical impacts of ingesting, inhaling, and touching plastic and its associated chemicals on humans. Exposes intentional gaps in public knowledge around risks and harms of plastic production. See Infographics below "Plastic & Health: The Hidden Costs of a Plastic Planet" and "Example of Multiple Pathways for Human Exposure to Microplastics through Seafood"
David Azoulay, Yvette Arellano, Miriam Gordon, Doun Moon, Kathryn Miller, & Kristen Thompson. (2019). Plastic & Health: The Hidden Costs of a Plastic Planet (February 2019). https://www.ciel.org/reports/plastic-health-the-hidden-costs-of-a-plastic-planet-february-2019/
The EU is a key player (investor, buyer, retailer) in the global garment industry, and recognizes the many human rights violations taking place in this sector. This report identifies critical areas of work, including the closure of supply chain loopholes, upholding labor rights and social standards, and increasing transparency/traceability of environmental and social impact. This report could be helpful when interrogating the impacts of microfibers on garment industry workers.
Lola Sánchez Caldentey. (2017, March 28). REPORT on the EU flagship initiative on the garment sector. https://www.europarl.europa.eu/doceo/document/A-8-2017-0080_EN.html